FAQs

Insulation is rated by R-value, which is a measure of thermal resistance, or resistance to heat flow. Each type of insulation has a particular R-value for an inch of thickness. The higher the R-value the better!!!

R-Value of Common Residential Insulation Materials

  • Wood = 1.0 - 1.5
  • Fiberglass Batt = 2.6 - 3.4 (If installed correctly)
  • Fiberglass Blown In = 2.2 - 2.4
  • Cellulose Dense Packed = 3.0 - 3.8
  • Cellulose Blown In = 3.2 - 3.8
  • Polyurethane spray foam (Open Cell) = 3.5 - 3.8
  • Polyurethane high density (Closed Cell) = 6.8 - 7.0

Under Construction. Info will be completed soon!!!!

Our denser foam products offer additional structural support to both walls & the roofs of any property. For roofs, our foam seals the soffit openings where hurricane force winds can sometimes get in & lift a roof off the top of a house. Walls become thicker & stronger with foam installed.

Mr. Green Jeans Insulation provides a sealed thermal envelope.  When applied, the insulation conforms and fills each cavity, crevasse and void.  Mr. Green Jeans Insulation contributes to the overall comfort and health of the occupants of a home.  By reducing air infiltration, the insulation also reduces dust and harmful, household mold and mildew.  Mr. Green Jeans Insulation provides a healthier, draft-free, indoor environment with no harmful emissions that can cause allergic reactions

The #1 way to stop or prevent moisture issues in a home is by Air Sealing.  Damaging moisture within a building envelope cavity is the result of warm moist outside air being exchanged with the cooler dryer air inside an insulation cavity. As the moisture in the air condenses, it forms dew within the insulation. On new construction and existing homes, we perform air sealing in through traditional practices, using canned foam and caulking and other materials, or we can stop air movement by installing spray foam insulation. If a home is properly air sealed, moisture movement and condensation does not occur. It is ideal for use in climates where buildings are both heated and air conditioned because the situation is reversed in summer with moisture forming on the back of the interior vapor retarder.

The foam has a flame spread of <0, and its smoke development is <350.  For those reasons, our foam is a Class 1-rated material against fires. Our open cell spray foam meets local Fire Codes because we have an Ignition Barrier included in the foam.

The Spray Foam insulation is sprayed into place onto a studded wall by a certified Mr. Green Jeans professional. As with any open surface, the foam insulation can be sprayed once electrical and plumbing services are in place. It then expands to up to 100 times its initial volume in seconds, permanently adhering to the surfaces of the surrounding building materials and sealing all gaps.

For new construction or renovations, the insulation is installed after the windows, doors and roof systems are in, the electrical, framing and plumbing inspections are complete, and after any other electrical or mechanical system located behind the drywall is installed. It is the last installation to take place before drywall installation. On existing homes, the spray foam insulation can be installed to the attic, roof line, and sub-flooring to seal in the house. It is more cost effective to leave existing interior wall insulation in place.

No, it takes a certified, trained professional with tens of thousands of dollars worth of equipment to install Mr. Green Jeans Foam Insulation because of the sophisticated equipment & experience needed to install it properly. Mr. Green Jeans thoroughly trains all its installers. Some members of our team have upwards of 22 yrs of experience in the spray-foam business. There are small do-it-yourself kits that one can use for 100sqft or less but the product cost alone is usually 30% higher than it would cost for Mr. Green Jeans to install the product for you.

No, foam insulation has been thoroughly tested and is not a concern to electrical authorities nor is it corrosive to any metals whatsoever.

An outlet can be easily added since the spray foam insulation drills more easily than wood.

The answer to this question is: "It depends." First of all, Mr. Green Jeans sprays both types of foam so we don't have an axe to grind unlike other foam guys. The answer to this question depends on a few factors: Where & what are we spraying? Roof, Attic, Wall, Subflooring, Metal, Wood, Brick, etc.. Do you have a moisture barrier or house wrap (Tyvec) on your home? Are you trying to flood proof your home or do you just want the best insulation value for your money? Mr. Green Jeans owner Kirk Williamson will usually come to your property or look at your plans to make recommendations on the best application for your situation. Both types of foams are very effective for their intended purposes.

YES!! This is one of our favorite applications. In the winter time, those of us with raised houses suffer from cold, moist wood floors & in the summertime we lose much of our conditioned air through cracks in our floors. Applying our product under the wood floors or under subflooring not only creates an air seal & insulates the floor, but it also seals all the cracks, crevasses, & holes where rodents, roaches, & spiders enter our homes. The foam also will protect your wood floors from soil moisture rising from the ground to slowly rot your wood. Installing fiberglass batts under your floors can be a huge mistake because they tend to drop a few inches creating an air gap where moisture can penetrate & wreak havoc on your wood, not to mention creating a more pleasant environment for termites & rodents. Although there are differing opinions on closed cell v open cell for a subfloor application, our experience is that closed cell is a preferable (but more expensive) product for a subfloor in our climate. Most building scientists & manufacturers agree with this opinion. Although we have never encountered any issues with open cell foam underneath a raised house (& we think it is much better than fiberglass), closed cell is more preferable in our opinion. I (the owner Kirk) have closed cell foam under my own house but have open cell foam under a few of my rental properties.

Our product offers no food value for any pests whatsoever. It actually seals the house from pests which can include roaches, rats, mice, spiders. You will have less roaches with spray foam. I personally see about 1/10th of the roaches than I used to in a leaky house. Foam is an inert substance; therefore it does not support bacteria or fungal growth whatsoever.

No.  Mr. Green Jeans Insulation is an inert substance so it is pest resistant.  There is absolutely no food value to the insulation.

  1. Fiberglass batts will not stop air leakage (they might filter out some dirt and dust). Spray-foam will stop air leakage . . . dead. Spray-foam is also mold & moisture resistant unlike fiberglass.
  2. Fiberglass batts have an R-value of about 3.5 per inch but this is not a true R-value since there is no air seal. Our spray-foam has a true R-value of 3.9-7 per inch depending on the density foam we use. Our cellulose product also seals gaps & has an R-value of 3.7 per inch.
  3. Fiberglass batts can sag & shrink over time; this leaves sections uninsulated and you’ll feel warmer or colder because of it. Spray-foam completely adheres to wood and sheathing; the result is a permanent barrier to heat loss and air entry.
  4. Spray-foam will add strength and rigidity to your house. Fiberglass batts will not.

Everyone from cutting edge building scientists, engineers, insulation experts, Green Home specialists, architects, mold experts, etc recommend the use of spray foam in new contruction or renovations.

Spray foam has been around for more than 30 years in commercial, industrial AND residential use. BUT it has only gotten very popular for residential use in the last 10-15 years, especially in hurricane prone areas.

Indefinitely. As an inert, long lasting polymer, spray foam will last the lifetime of the home.

Your house DOES need to be ventilated, BUT most home engineers & building scientists (as well as the US Dept of Energy) advise that you seal the structure as tight as possible & provide necessary ventilation through your air conditioning & heating system. Many systems employ an "air exchanger" which pre-conditions incoming outside air to control humidity & energy efficiency. This type of design along with spray-foam creates a true Thermal Envelope.

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